L'Osteria del Forno

Sean Ludford, BevX

I was recently reminded that one of my favorite restaurants in the US has never made it to our Fave Spot department. Once I confirmed this to be true I had to scratch my head and ask myself why? Perhaps it was just a simple oversight or maybe my subconscious was hard at work trying to keep this little gem all to myself.

The little gem, L'Osteria del Forno, is indeed little with no more than 20 seats and regardless of my efforts to keep my praises underwraps this North Beach neighborhood original is far from a secret. Despite the fact that the seating is very limited, the tables are quite small, no reservations are accepted, and that this is a cash-only establishment, L'Osteria del Forno is nearly always busy. In the peak lunch and dinner hours a wait is almost a certainty. However, for those who have sampled the fare, any wait is time well spent.

There are no frills here in this simple, storefront restaurant. The cuisine is Northern Italian featuring baked pastas, roasted meats, thin pizzas, and the best focaccia you will eat outside of Italy.  The dishes are simple and authentic unencumbered with extra, unnecessary items. The rich and hearty polenta, baked with gorgonzola or gruyere (your choice), is a staple as is the drool-worthy roast pork braised in milk.  A favorite of mine has always been the Radicchio alla Griglia, a grilled radicchio wrapped in Parma prosciutto. The pizzas are available by the slice or in two sizes to share. The daily special board is often a sufficient menu plan; just say yes.

The wine list is simple and clever offering many bottles for at or under $30. Most of the choices are ideally suited for the cuisine. The service is always spot-on. I have made many visits here over 15 years and I have had only three servers that I can recall. These people really know the menu and always provide great suggestions.

L'Osteria del Forno has become a favorite with locals and travelers alike. They have been open in the same spot for 20 years. There has been a good deal of pressure for this family owned and operated restaurant to move to a larger spot but hey have successfully resisted. I for one am grateful for this, as I can’t imagine this place living in another set of walls and glass. Why fool with perfection?

For travelers to the Bay Area I suggest that you grab a late lunch here and avoid the crowds. The restaurant is open steady from lunch through dinner, closing at 10, without interruption.